Is there a Plumming reference for the propane lines?

[wirelessguyny]

I have a 71 Voyager 25 and trying to figure out how the propane lines were run. I believe that I have one line running across the axle to where the heater is (exposed under the under belly panels but wrapped).

I can not tell where the original lines ran from the tanks.
I assume the first went to the oven and water heater and then cut across for the fridge and heater.

I’d likely put new copper lines in and encase in pex for protection.

[Salty]

NFPA 1192 is a reference for propane regarding RVs. After that, you can be creative, imaginative, even artistic. just stay within safety guidelines and you're good to go.
Not sure I'd encase the copper lines in PEX. Speaking for myself, I can see a scenario where gas could collect inside that PEX line.

[wirelessguyny]

I was hoping someone would have a photo or drawing of how their lines are run. I’d have to inspect the underbelly more thoroughly but I didn’t originally expect it all to be underneath and exposed.

The pex thing was something I heard other have seen/done. Running pex alone wouldn’t meet code but people were just using it as a good form of shielding from the road. I suppose i could just leave the joints exposed so that gas would have somewhere to escape.

The copper pipe run i had left looked as if it had a wrap made of garden hose with a slit down the middle and then wire tying it over the copper line every so often.

[Salty]

<t>So ultimately you'd like to make a prophylactic, I get it. Perforate it. <br/>
To give you a comparison, flexible gas hoses used to plumb oxygen and fuel gas (propane) are created using a hose within a hose solution. The inner hose is sealed. The outer jacket hose has thousands of tiny holes in it so that should the inner hose rupture, the outer jacket will diffuse and bleed off the gas in a way that will prevent most mishaps.
Check the NFPA reference listed above.

[KYAvion]

@Salty —do you think a soaker hose would have enough perforations to suffice?

[Salty]

I assume we are speaking of the gas line run under the trailer. Were I to create a cover, this is what I might do:
For a 1/2" gas line, I'd take 3/4" PEX and drill 1/4" holes every inch along the length of the pipe. Then I'd rotate the PEX pipe 90 degrees and drill 1/8" holes half way between the 1/4" holes in the cross axis.
That would definitely prevent gas from collecting in the event of a leak or rupture and provide the pipe some protection from road rash. However, from a practical stand point the above would create a wonderful home for dirt daubers.
From NFPA 1192
5.3.8.2 Where tubing or hose passes through walls, floors,
partitions, roofs, or similar installations, such tubing or hose
shall be protected by the use of weather-resistant grommets
that fit snugly both the tubing or hose and the hole through
which the tubing or hose passes.
5.3.9 Restrictions on Concealing Joints in Propane Piping or
Tubing.
5.3.9.1 Pipe or tubing joints shall not be located in any floor,
wall, partition, or concealed construction space.
5.3.9.2 Pipe and tubing joints shall be permitted to be located
in storage areas if they are located within 2 in. (51 mm) of the
compartment's ceiling with the tubing joints protected from
physical damage.
5.3.9.3 Pipe joints shall be permitted to be located below the
2 in. (51 mm) requirement if protected from physical damage.

Nowhere in the standard did I find a restriction on wrapping the pipe with anything. Joints of course can't be concealed. I've had to do post fire inspections on Oxy-Fuel cutting machines where the fuel gas line was run inside an enclosed power track. Not pretty. So I'm biased against running fuel gas lines in anything where the gas could collect and catch.
@KYAvion That perforated hose you mention is not something I would use. The hoses I mentioned in the above posts does literally have thousands of holes per meter.

[wirelessguyny]

Interesting comments. I can try to take photographs of the piece of line I have left but based upon what you say it seems like the garden hose type wrap might make the most sense. It’s slit down the entire length so there wouldn’t be any gas buildup and the metal wire holding it on is snug and shouldnt really allow critters to nest too easily.

[silverloaf]

I played around with different theories on how best to run new gas line under our '88 30P. The OEM routing was rather loose and wild. It ran low in some spots and not well secured. Oddly, I didn't see any indication the line had ever been damaged or replaced in its lifetime.

I set my goal to keep the new copper gas line as snug as possible to the belly pan. I used support clips with rubber grommets to isolate the tubing from the pan. I used a bending spring to shape the tubing where there were changes in elevation.

The lowest point of the original routing was under the cross-beam that supported the stabilizer jacks behind the rear wheels. I fabricated some spacers and lowered the cross-beam by about 1-1/4"at its attaching points. I then routed the copper tubing between the beam and the belly pan.

In the end, I replaced the 5 ft section of 1/2" black pipe at the very front of the trailer; I believe this was done by Avion as a safety measure. I ran 1/2" copper down the center of the trailer for the supply, and then tee'd to 3/8" tubing for each appliance.

Early on, I had thought about installing some type of protective cladding over the tubing. However, the OEM tubing survived 32 years without damage. I chose to improve on the routing, not re-invent the wheel.

By the way, I encourage you to use long-neck flaring nuts at each connection under the trailer. They are designed to stiffen the connection at each fitting in the event the tubing gets snagged. Avion used these fittings throughout the trailer.