Radial vs bias tires

Axles and Suspension Systems, Brakes, Brake Controllers, Wheels, Tires
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Salty
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Radial vs bias tires

Post by Salty »

I realize I may be opening a can of worms here, but I'd like to hear the thoughts of others.I was reading up on tires and came across a discussion regarding not how well bias vs radials wear, but how they disassemble. Without quoting the entire post, the gist of it was that when a radial tire blows, the steel belts tend to whip and destroy (Lacerate), hence my concern.
Thoughts?
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
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KYAvion
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by KYAvion »

I have experienced damage from a radial trailer tire, but I don’t believe it was from the steel belt whipping. That said, I can imagine the severe damage the belt would cause. In my case the damage wasn’t too bad, and I believe it was caused by chunks of rubber hitting the wheel well.

I now run 16” LT tires with bolt in metal valve stems and also use a TST 507 system. https://www.amazon.com/Systems-Technolo ... B01DTGH66M
KYAvion
1984 Avion 30R
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KYAvion
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by KYAvion »

My incident was referred to as a classic example of a “Run Low Flex Failure." These were Mastertrack load range D with max load of 2540lbs. The tires had been installed for approximately 13 months at the time of the failure.
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KYAvion
1984 Avion 30R
Salty
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by Salty »

Roger that
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
RISK
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by RISK »

I’ll add to this can of worms by asking for opinions on a tire choice...

I’m down to:

Goodyear Endurance

Or

Maxxis 8008

I like the fact that the GYE’s are US made while the 8008’s are made in Thailand. What’s strange to me though is that the 8008’s come up in “best rv tire” internet searches quite a bit while the GYE’s hardly do. I guess in a way that partly answers my question.

I know that a properly rated, inflated and maintained tire is the best but I’d like to hear your thoughts and any other recommendations.

Ian
1978 26M
1964 SilverStreak Sabre
1977 Airstream Sovereign (in a million pieces)
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KYAvion
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by KYAvion »

I don’t know anything about those tires, but I can say I’ve had no issues with my Cooper HT3’s. I believe Cooper tires are also made in the USA.
KYAvion
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slowmover
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Re: Radial vs bias tires

Post by slowmover »

Heat is what kills tires.

From dead-cold overnight parked, it will take 1.5-hours at steady-state cruise for tire pressure to equalize.

The trailer rides on air not rubber. The rubber is a case. It has to expand to the degree which the pressurized air inside of it stops expanding.

Too little air, and case flex increases to the point that it weakens from heat which can’t be dissipated.

Proper air pressure is like temperature control for the tire casing.

After an alignment at a big truck/trailer specialist,

1). Record tire pressures after sitting overnight and BEFORE the sun starts to heat them.

2). At a CAT SCALE, record the trailer tire load. A sliding measure may be made of the tandems separately with the help of the scalemater. Each axle isolated.

3). One can also get one side of the trailer OFF the scale edge, but clearance starts to get tricky.

4). READINGS ARE ONLY CORRECT AFTER the hitch rigging is squared away. Steer Axle is same before & after hitching.

5). The test is 1-hour plus at highway speed into a rest area or similar where DEAD MINIMAL service brake use can be done to come to a stop.

— Pressure rise of 7-8% is fine. If 10%, needs more air (small percentage). On an 80-psi tire, maybe 5-psi extra

6). Do not EVER move trailer without two things:

1). Correct tire pressure check daily.
2). Wheel lug nut torque confirmed.

FWIW, I’d never use ST tires. This isn’t a junk-hauling construction trailer. The ST Rating is means they can never be used where liability is a factor (passenger vehicles).

Plenty of better options exist. I used the LT YOKOHAMA RY215 on the last trailer. Quality is unquestioned.

The BRIDGESTONE 500 would be another possibility.

Closed Shoulder, Highway Rib is nearly always best choice. Cut shoulders, and you’d best be careful. They don’t like the tight turns trailer tires suffer. Start to lose tread chunks

Tread-separation style accidents WILL cause from $5,000-$10,000 in damages to one of these.

There’s no savings with ST. They’re not in ANY case a better choice.

Bias tires run hot. Limited market. Not best quality. Sure as hell don’t have the wet weather braking ability of radials. I haven’t used them in 35-years and wouldn’t go back. They flat-spot terribly as well.

Trailer just sitting a few years? Doesn’t matter what they are. The single exception.

.
1990 35’ Silver Streak Sterling
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