Water system Leak

[Dilly]

My mistake, that photo is not an XB model, but it is a 34 built in 88.

[KYAvion]

You could equalize your black and grey, but keep in mind that while your grey goes into the black, the black also goes into the grey.

You basically dumped clean freshwater into your grey tank. Most would probably just let it drain out.

[silverloaf]

Its a rear bath.

I was not connected to city water when I noticed the leak and unfortunately I am not in a location where I can drain the grey water tank.

Here's the 1982 Avion Brochure
http://www.gradeless.com/avion/1982/1982.pdf

We have a '88 30P with rear bath and twin beds. The layout looks identical until they reach the kitchen area.

In our trailer, the gray water tank is above the axles, followed by the fresh water tank and then the black water tank. I removed the black water tanks to reconstruct the bathroom floor and steel cross-members. I removed the fresh water tank to replace the plywood panel that supported the tank.

It's difficult to trace a leak with the belly pan installed. Here's what I found in our trailer.

I found no connection between the gray and blacks upstream of the dump valve. Pic 2119 shows the dump valve with independent gates. The left side runs to the gray tank.

Pic 1550 shows the drain pipe adjacent to fresh water tank. The white pipe (new) goes to the dump valve
The gray ABS pipe connects to the tank.

Pic 1781 shows the drain pipe routing for the kitchen sink. Pic 1791 shows the drain pipe running to a threaded fitting on top of the gray water tank. I found several leaks in the fittings when I did a water test. Some where either poorly glued or had inadequate depth of the pipe. One sanitary tee was installed upside down. It wouldn't take much for these connections to loosen up with the trailer in motion.

I replaced all the plumbing from the tank (including the threaded adapter) to the cabinet under the sink. No more leaks after that.

The only other possibility are leaks at the fittings at the base of the fresh water tank. There are 2 fittings: one for the suction side of the pump. The other runs to a drain hose that goes through the frame to a valve. There is also a master drain plug on the bottom of the tank.

[Dilly]

Thanks for the info, Bob.

So, I just drained no more than a couple gals into the black tank before it oddly wouldn't take any more(I can see through the toilet that it is practically , and about 20 gals into buckets. I'm not very well leveled out and have quite a bit of left lean, so it makes sense to me that the grey tank would overflow at only 3/4 or so capacity. The grey tank is now empty and to my surprise, the waste water tank level monitors reflect the new levels. I took on some more fresh water and the monitor for that tank works as well. Should I be surprised that those actually work, or are they pretty reliable? It looks like everything might actually be ok. I need to wait for it to stop raining now so I can see if the water dripping from the pan is rain water or a leak. I also need to continue flushing out the fresh water tank because the filter keeps clogging with black goo after running the pump for only a few mins.

[silverloaf]

Dilly,

I didn't have a chance to test the tank monitoring system in our trailer after we bought it. It went directly in to suspension and floor work after we pulled it home.

I decided not to mess around with OEM system. The probes are spun-welded into the side of the tanks. Chuck Cayo said they are rather risky to cut out and replace without leaking.

I went with The SeeLevel II tank monitoring system made by Garnet. It uses pressure-sensitive sensor strips that are attached to the tanks. I located the monitoring unit in the command center.

https://www.garnetinstruments.com/wp-co ... -title.png