Ordered new "operators" for windows
Ordered new "operators" for windows
Ordered a few "operators" for the windows in our 1987 34W:
US Hardware item# WP8867C
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sidemount-Wind ... 749.l46252
US Hardware item# WP8867C
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sidemount-Wind ... 749.l46252
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
The one on the rear window just spins. Didn’t notice any real binding before it quit. Seems like I remember replacing that one right after we bought the trailer 5 years ago. Maybe the one I put in was made of some weak pot metal in the gearing?
I ordered 4 of them so I would have some spares.
I ordered 4 of them so I would have some spares.
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
I would like to report that I got the rear window operator replaced this evening. These parts are impressive and I would recommend them. They are MADE IN THE USA, and feel like they are well-made. Hopefully, they will last a long time. I got them for $9.20/ea.
One important feature of these: it can be used on left or right-hand locations. The round hole in the operator goes all the way through the body of the operator, with about an 1/8" shoulder that sticks out on each side of the body. All of our windows are right-hand. To make the new operator fit flush with the window frame, I used my bench grinder to remove the shoulder that goes against the window frame.
(If I replace another one, I will take some pictures to show it...)
One important feature of these: it can be used on left or right-hand locations. The round hole in the operator goes all the way through the body of the operator, with about an 1/8" shoulder that sticks out on each side of the body. All of our windows are right-hand. To make the new operator fit flush with the window frame, I used my bench grinder to remove the shoulder that goes against the window frame.
(If I replace another one, I will take some pictures to show it...)
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
I have a 1975 28' La Grande and would like to replace all the operators since they all have loose play. My rear window is a slider, so I'm not sure if the other operators are the same, given the difference in years, however your photo looks like what I need. Mine are riveted in and right side, but it appears that both sides have to be removed to get the complete assembly out. Drilling out the rivets also looks tricky, given the tight working space and I'll have to replace with screws since I could never get the head of the riveter close enough.
I would appreciate it if you could describe the steps you took to replace, and possibly include a photo or two.
Thanks in advance for the help and the link to the part. I had previously found what appeared to be the right operator at http://parkin-acc.com/page3.html but hadn't ordered because I wanted to make sure I understood what had to be done and that the part was right (and we went camping).
I would appreciate it if you could describe the steps you took to replace, and possibly include a photo or two.
Thanks in advance for the help and the link to the part. I had previously found what appeared to be the right operator at http://parkin-acc.com/page3.html but hadn't ordered because I wanted to make sure I understood what had to be done and that the part was right (and we went camping).
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
The recent one I replaced is one I replaced 5 years ago when we brought our Avion home. Here's how I replaced it then:
- Remove the interior bug screen
- Open the window...... if the operator still works, use it.... if it doesn't, (either way, you'll need to do this) you will need to remove the two c-clips at either end of the rod that moves with the operator. Those c-clips secure the flat bars that connect to the window panes.
- Remove the flat bars (that were secured by the c-clips) on the left and right. This will free the window panes from the operator rod at the bottom of the window.
- Prop the window open with something. I used a small crescent wrench that was just long enough to go between the window frame and a window pane. The weight of the window held it in place.
- Remove the knob or crank from the operator.
- Now, the operator, the rod, and the bracket on the left end of the rod need to be removed. The operator and the left bracket are originally secured with rivets, and those rivet heads need to be removed. I did that using a drill bit that was long enough to reach it from the outside area of the window. Once the rivet heads are removed, the rest of the rivet can be pushed out and removed from the other side. This should loosen the mechanism enough to remove it from the frame.
- I found it easiest to start on the left end.... the bracket needs to be lifted up enough to clear the window frame, which will allow the removal of the rod that goes in between the operator and the bracket. Once the rod is removed, you can work the operator out of the frame.... kind of hard to describe in words, but it takes some jockeying to get it out. (This is a good time to clean the window sill.)
- It all goes back together in reverse order. Rather than rivets, I used appropriate-length small bolts, lock washers, and nuts to secure the operator and the bracket in the frame.
- Attachments
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- Drilling out the rivet head
- 1.jpeg (36.13 KiB) Viewed 12165 times
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- Holding on to the other side so it won't spin
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- Tapping out the rivet
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- The rivet, ready to remove
- 4.jpeg (36.81 KiB) Viewed 12165 times
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- Removing the rivet
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- The left c-clip (there is one on the right, also)
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- How I supported the window
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- Removing the right (do the same on the left)
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- Removing the right (do the same on the left)
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- Need to lift up on the left end of the tube to free the bracket
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- Left bracket going up
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- Left bracket clear of the frame
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- Removing the left bracket from the tube
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- The right-hand end of the tube was snug on mine....
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- So I used a flat screwdriver to help get it out.... didn't take much.
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- Tube completely out
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- Removing the knob
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- Knob off
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- Wiggle, push, pry.... (no cussing)
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- Wiggle, push, pry.... it's out!!
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- The new operator. See the collars on the left and right? The right-hand side needs to be ground off
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- That one needs to be ground off
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- At the grinder
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- Right-hand collar removed
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- The results
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- Left bracket in, new bolts, lock washers, and nuts
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- Left bracket in, new bolts, lock washers, and nuts
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- New operator in, new bolts, lock washers, and nuts
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- Not real pretty, but secure. cap nuts would look better
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- Not real pretty, but secure. cap nuts would look better
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- Finished!!
- 31.jpeg (46.21 KiB) Viewed 12165 times
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
As an inquisitive type, I like to know what makes things work and not work. So, I took apart the operator that I removed today. Inside, you can see some substantial gearing that should hold together forever. Pretty good design, but a poor selection of materials. The gears are good, stout metal, but the round center shaft is made of the same pot metal as the case. It appears that they relied on a simple press-fit to keep the gear attached to the center hexagonal shaft. It looks like, over time, that hexagonal shaft wore to the point of letting the gear slip on the shaft. Or, the case halves might not have kept the gear on the hexagonal part of the shaft and allowed it to disengage from the spiral knob shaft.... cannot really tell.
Planned obsolescence? Who knows? But a simple choice of materials could have eliminated the need of replacing these operators in the first place.
Planned obsolescence? Who knows? But a simple choice of materials could have eliminated the need of replacing these operators in the first place.
- Attachments
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- 50.jpeg (57.67 KiB) Viewed 12167 times
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- 51.jpeg (67.63 KiB) Viewed 12167 times
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
Many thanks for the detailed description and the photos. The shots of the interior of the operator are also interesting. Your operator placement and the brackets appear a bit different from mine, although I suspect the operators themselves are the same. The procedure you describe is how I started, before backing out and replacing everything. I experienced the tight working space you describe and didn't want to dismantle the window until I was sure I could get the correct replacement part and had the time for shipping etc. Now that we are back from a rally, time is not an issue.
I'll take some pictures on my 'situation' tomorrow and post them. I'll also be better able to compare while I'm looking at it.
Currently, our handles spin a couple of turns, and then engage the gears and will push the window open. Likewise on closing the window will get almost closed, then free-wheel a couple of turns and then pull it the rest of the way closed. Therefor, they actually work (after a fashion), just not the way they should. It seems like the gear or worm (or both) are possibly worn, but not completely broke.
Thanks again.
I'll take some pictures on my 'situation' tomorrow and post them. I'll also be better able to compare while I'm looking at it.
Currently, our handles spin a couple of turns, and then engage the gears and will push the window open. Likewise on closing the window will get almost closed, then free-wheel a couple of turns and then pull it the rest of the way closed. Therefor, they actually work (after a fashion), just not the way they should. It seems like the gear or worm (or both) are possibly worn, but not completely broke.
Thanks again.
Re: Ordered new "operators" for windows
I hope it helps!WEB wrote: ↑Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:29 pm Many thanks for the detailed description and the photos. The shots of the interior of the operator are also interesting. Your operator placement and the brackets appear a bit different from mine, although I suspect the operators themselves are the same. The procedure you describe is how I started, before backing out and replacing everything. I experienced the tight working space you describe and didn't want to dismantle the window until I was sure I could get the correct replacement part and had the time for shipping etc. Now that we are back from a rally, time is not an issue.
I'll take some pictures on my 'situation' tomorrow and post them. I'll also be better able to compare while I'm looking at it.
Currently, our handles spin a couple of turns, and then engage the gears and will push the window open. Likewise on closing the window will get almost closed, then free-wheel a couple of turns and then pull it the rest of the way closed. Therefor, they actually work (after a fashion), just not the way they should. It seems like the gear or worm (or both) are possibly worn, but not completely broke.
Thanks again.
The way you described how your operators are working is exactly how mine was today.
Looking forward to seeing what you have.
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???