Exterior Rivets

[Markinalaska]

I read that people are buying 5/32 closed end rivets for the exterior but I’ve never seen the length being discussed. I searched and found numerous replies to the size but not the length. I’m looking to buy some for exterior work and want to make sure I get the correct length. What length are people using on the exterior and for that matter the interior since I will be removing the interior front panel to fix my front light at the battery area.

[RISK]

I’ll assume by closed end rivets you’re referring to buck rivets?

The general rule as I understand it as well as employ, is that the tail should protrude twice as far as the material being fastened together. This allows for the tail end to be bucked to twice the diameter of the rivet shaft for proper compression.

I’m out of town so I can’t check exactly what I have in stock, but I just did a bunch of repairs on a friends trailer using buck rivets and I used the shorter of the rivets that came with the kit I got from VTS a few years ago and they were perfect. I was riveting two panels of .040 together so I’m guessing they were in the .160 range.

Ian

[RISK]

Also, you can just get the longest rivet you think you will use and cut them down with a rivet cutting tool.

Here is a link to the kit I got so you see what all I’m talking about:

https://vintagetrailersupply.com/airstr ... t-vts-843/

Ian

[Markinalaska]

I’ll assume by closed end rivets you’re referring to buck rivets?

The general rule as I understand it as well as employ, is that the tail should protrude twice as far as the material being fastened together. This allows for the tail end to be bucked to twice the diameter of the rivet shaft for proper compression.

I’m out of town so I can’t check exactly what I have in stock, but I just did a bunch of repairs on a friends trailer using buck rivets and I used the shorter of the rivets that came with the kit I got from VTS a few years ago and they were perfect. I was riveting two panels of .040 together so I’m guessing they were in the .160 range.

Ian

Actually I was inquiring about the olympic rivets as I won’t have access to all the interior to use buck rivets. But knowing that the outside skin is .040 Was pretty much what I needed to know. I have never actually seen the skin size anywhere. I’ve seen the type of aluminum 5005 anodized, but never the thickness. Thanks, that’s what I needed to get the right products to do my repairs.

Mark

[RISK]

I wouldn’t take my word as gospel on the thickness, the repair area was a rebuild of the supply hatch on a ‘77 so it may well have been a different thickness than yours.

Also, with squeeze rivets, the length isn’t near as critical as long as it isn’t too long. I’m not a huge fan of Olympic rivets as they are more susceptible to leaking than you would think. Either way, make certain to ditch the neoprene grommet/washer.
If you were closer I’d lend you my rivet shaver so you don’t have to shell out the dough for that, cleans Oly’s up real nice like.

Ian

[Markinalaska]

Thanks Ian,
I found a shaver bit for not much money that I plan on using to shave them, I still have to purchase it though. I also have some Capt. Tolley’s creeping crack cure that I plan on using on every rivet I install. Not sure how much it will help but I’m hopeful. I have so many projects running right now I’m not sure which one to focus on . I’m currently wiring in led lights for my cabinets, finishing up the install of my new power center, building a dinette and couch as my trailer has neither, replacing all parts on the trailer axles, remove the axles and sandblast them and have a new spindle re-welded onto the curbside center axle, fix and remake three external compartment doors (rear, water heater, power center) as they don’t fit and have become unusable at this time, the dump valve is busted and the door covering it is falling apart, I have to purchase and install new leveling jacks as the ones that were on the trailer looked like the PO drove off with them down. I have to remove the belly pans and check all of that along with all the plumbing, install a new water heater and pump. Fix the 12v trailer wiring since none of the trailer lights work from my tow although I have found that I can make them light up with an external battery. So something’s screwed up with the trailer to truck connection. I rewired the trailers 7pin according to the schematic I found on here and that doesn’t seem to be working for me. I also need to replace all the running lights and reflectors. Then I have to fix the porch light and the front light on the trailer above the battery, replace ALL the seals and screw covers externally, reseal the roof even though it doesn’t appear to be leaking, fix the TV antenna, replace the radio antenna, install three new fans in my 18” openings, find a new RV fridge as I’m currently running a small house one and it isn’t big enough for my needs. And lastly fix the floor at the door and fix the door itself as the current one is held together with straps and doesn’t close properly. Either buy or make a rock guard, and either fix or replace the main awning. Other than that, not much else going on.

[Razorback]

Your to-do list made me think of my 93-year-old dad..... all my life I have heard him say this, and if he told of your list, he would always end it with, “Well, that’ll keep me out of the bars!”

[78Silver28J]

The appeal of the Avion to me was the aluminum construction and ease of repairing it. I wouldn’t touch Olympic rivets. In the aircraft industry we avoid them as well. If I can’t buck the tails on a solid rivet I would only use Cherrymax blind rivets. Structurally they can replace solids size for size. They have a locking collar ensuring they don’t vibrate loose. They come in nominal sizes and half size over as well so you don’t have to jump up a whole size. I.e. 1/8” to 5/32 you can instead go in between the two sizes. You can even pull them with a hand puller. Yeah they aren’t cheap but they work great. You can pull them wet with sealant as well. They don’t look exactly like a solid though, like a Olympic will. I’ll take functionality over looks. That and I have a good stockpile of them on hand.

Length is critical for structural strength. There are handy little gauges to measure the material thickness of what you are joining together. There is a ton of info out there. Check out Monroe aerospace or genuine aircraft hardware.

Feel free to ask me about anything, I’m willing to help. 20+ years in aircraft structure maintenance and now engineering services. So if I don’t know it, I know where to get the answer.

Oliver

[Razorback]

Hi, Oliver!

Boy, how I WISH I could spend a few hours/days/weeks with you learning this kind of stuff. I bet your skill would come in very handy!

[Salty]

Hi, Oliver!

Boy, how I WISH I could spend a few hours/days/weeks with you learning this kind of stuff. I bet your skill would come in very handy!

+1
Wish I had known about Cherrymax rivets a year ago. Those look great. Like you, I'll take functionality over looks.

@Markinalaska I feel your pain brother. Much of what is on your todo list I have done. PM me about your wiring.