Installing New sub floor on 34wb

[alcoaroller]

Ok kids. Thought I would get this in the right sub forum. As mentioned previously in my introduction, I am in the process of replacing my subfloor. Currently I am in the demo phase. Trust me it's like an archaeology dig trying to remove in sections so I can see whats going on underneath. I want to see exactly how it was put together so I can repeat. There appears to be solid wood 2x material under the c-channel. This is sandwiched by the lower plywood and upper plywood. There is no Styrofoam in between. They did some interesting things up front with more solid wood under the front wall. I had wondered about this because a lot of the attachments on a basement model either screw in from the bottom around the solid wood perimeter or into the side of the same. The belt line being one of them. The middle section of my floor is not rotted like the perimeter but I am going to pull it all. The solid sections in the middle are tough to get up since they seemed to have been glued to the Styrofoam beneath. The bottom layer of plywood appears to be very thin stuff of the consistency of lauan and the top layer 1/2 inch. So far I have only found 4 shoulder bolts that attach to the frame below. Anyway all update as progress continues but thought I would share these photos for now. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.

THe above is as I got started.

[pbsled]

I feel your pain. I have plenty of pics on a similar project this summer if you need any thoughts on future design, materials or sequence. I think the hard part is really dealing with the fact that the shell coming off the base of the camper floor would make this all easier - but that is a BIG project.

Keep us posted and hang in there. There is lots of experience on this forum.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1063

[alcoaroller]

Thanks for the reply PB. I just got my new table saw in so thinks should start moving a bit faster. Unfortunately going out of town this weekend so cant really get serious until next week. Would like to see your pics if you have a link.

Thanks

Ken

[Salty]

There are a host of pics in this sub-forum on floor repair. I would point you to posts authored by Silverloaf, PBsled and myself. Pics will show you the general construction layout that was original.
I seem to recall that a defect of the XB models was the fasteners used underneath the main floor wicking moisture and rotting the floor. If you're not the original owner, the floor may have been replaced before.
Best of luck to you, there is an adventure ahead of you.

To quote a local philosopher "
So..if your trailer is constructed anything like mine, grab a vibrating saw, angle grinder, prybar and a sense of humor."

[alcoaroller]

Thanks Salty,

I think the issue with basement models was they put the siding on with the lower skin on top of the upper skin at least thats what I understood. I can only assume that seam is under the upper beltline on the trailer. I can assure you there has been some wicking going on in mine. I don't have any reason to think the floor has been replaced previously. I did speak to Chuck Cayo today and he was nice enough to lend me some time. He really didn't divulge anything I haven't already read accept to say that the wall was definitely screwed down to the floor through the c channel. The fix will require opening up the wall to repeat the process once the floor is down or I have read where someone, may have been Silver loaf used aluminum L bracket where the wall meets the floor to tie it down. Not sure yet which way to go. HE also said that the outer and inner skins will support themselves with out being supported at the outrigers while doing the project. That sounds scary to me but its what he said.

Anyway, Ill get busy again next week on it. As for now I'm still removing old floor.

Thanks again

Ken

[KYAvion]

So what supports the shell (inner and outer skins) if it’s not supported at the outriggers when the floor is removed?

[pbsled]

In answer to what supports the shell once the floor is removed, in my case I would say nothing. Only the strength of the shell itself kept it from sagging while suspended (cantilevered actually) out over the frame while I rebuilt the floor. I did some “testing” with floor jacks and jack stands to see if it needed supports, and when I slightly lifted the shell it started pulling the rest of the camper up, which is a great testament to the strength of the shell itself. I think if only a few feet of floor is removed at a time it’s fine to leave suspended for short periods of time, but larger sections would need the shell suspended from the frame somehow or jack posts to the ceiling maybe (with lots of gentle load dispersement).

This pic below is from when I had only cantilevered support with the rear floor totally removed .... I would say total deflection over 6’ was about 1/8” total sag at the bumper area.

[KYAvion]

That’s incredible. Makes me feel better about some rotted flooring under the front couch that I’ve put off replacing.

[alcoaroller]

Holy Moly Pbsled. Thats crazy:) I guess a pic is worth a thousand words. Did you put in that wood stud or is that original? I would have assumed they were aluminum? Thanks for the pic.

[pbsled]

All the studs are still aluminum .... just looks like wood because of spray foam overspray.