An Entertaining Conundrum

[silverloaf]

We're trying to figure out what to do for audio and video upgrades for our trailer. I have a blank sheet of paper.

The original media center consisted of factory-installed, automotive-grade Am/FM stereo radio with cassette deck. The unit powered 4 speakers: two in the living area and two in the sleeping area.

There is a pull-up shelf in the front credenza. I believe was it used as a TV stand.

I need help with these questions:

1. What are forum members' thoughts on media features for their trailer? Any must haves?

2. Have you done part of it in 12v and part in 110v, or everything in one power supply?

3. What makes and models of components have have served you well (or want to get)?

4. Anybody using an inverter to power up 110v components off-grid?

BTW - I have installed new Cat 6e ethernet cable installed from the service bay to the front; it is double shielded. We can chose between shore connection or maybe satellite dish. No modem, router or dish yet.

Thanks in advance, folks!

[Salty]

I bought a Sony unit with 55w/ch max output. This unit is bluetooth and Sirus capable. This will feed the 4 speaker cabinets already installed in the trailer, one pair of which will get the Focal speakers I scored.I chose this particular unit as it was an all in one solution - no external amp required (or desired) and I can run it on battery power. As for "comforts of home" media, I have a NIB SAMSUNG 50" 4k TV that will likely block the overly large picture window. Surround duties fall to a logitech 5.1 system. These are both 110 AC units that I will run off an inverter.
The TV uses a measly 1.5 amps on 120 AC so inverter operation will require 15 amps of DC draw.
The surround system is a problem. It draws 4.2 amps on 120 AC which correlates to 42 amps of DC power, so If I use it boondocking, I'd probably want to keep the volume down. Not that I'm a metal head.... anymore....

I haven't really determined where I'm going to put the TV yet, but curbside front is the most likely mounting place.
After that, likely an LTE signal booster looking at Uniden, Smoothtalker and WeBoost units. No decision yet. That's about it for electronic creature comforts.
I'm considering a bluetooth LP gas monitoring system.
Currently drawing a "Saltys' version" of the monitoring panel schematic with home run cables to the tank sending units, terminal strips and I'll alter the function of the now useless LPG monitoring that was obsoleted due to new govt. tank specifications.
Comment: Who the HEll uses black color wire for B+ circuits? Seriously?

[silverloaf]

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately’I don’t do A/V electronics very well. I’m overwhelmed with information but still in search of basic knowledge.

[silverloaf]

Salty-

I didn’t mean to play dumb and dumber with your response. Out in the sun too much these days.

What I’m now thinking is to use as much 110v componentry as possible. I don’t want to fart around with mixed-voltage stuff if possible. For off-shore use, I would get an inverter and switch to toggle between 110v shore and off-shore when we’re off-grid.

So... I have 12v power in the cabinet from the OEM radio/cassette. I’ll wire in a 110v plug in the cabinet as well. Then there might be a modem and router somewhere in the cabinet.

Should I run a dedicated 12v wire (fused) from the battery or merely connect to the 12v wire already there? Maybe I should crunch some power draw numbera

Thanks! In advance!

[Salty]

Dumb and dumber? are you capable of that? I had no adverse reaction to your post.
Your question is difficult to answer without some additional information. For instance, do you have a 30 amp entrance or 50?
How many Amp hours is your battery bank?
as far as I can tell, you're using the existing wiring, but I read you were considering running a direct line to the radio.
I don't know your musical interests or the volume level that you prefer listen to. I will state what my considerations were when choosing the components I did and hope you can draw something from that.
I chose the radio based on it's wattage output and 12VDC connectivity. It was low enough not to overpower the
batteries when I boondock and high enough to drive speakers at a reasonable volume level. I chose speakers rated to match the output of the radio.
What I didn't choose was a high end ($5k focal) component setup for a number of reasons.
1. Power draw
2. my ears aren't what they used to be
3. complexity and space. Component setups require more involved install than I was willing to perform. Also, when you have a mid to high end setup, they are really designed to be displayed, which I find garrish.
Hence, Sony, a reputable mfr, was my choice as a receiver/amp combo

The TV and surround sound system. I enjoy movies. The TV fits the bill as large enough screen but not too large (IMO) and the power draw was a good match @ 180 watts. I'll run on inverters when off grid and since my battery bank is (will be) designed to deliver 300 amps (3x 200Ah LiFePo4) the TV draw is negligible. The surround sound may be an issue.
Samsung was the mfr of choice for the TV and I got it for a good price with an extended warranty. It's thin, so other than covering a wall, it doesn't protrude much.
After saying all that, it comes down to what you have available power for, what is the aim of the system (High power, ease of use/install, bling ...) and how/where you want to install it.
You could just as easily buy a really good set of headphones and skip the stereo and use your phone.

[silverloaf]

Thanks for the kudo and your assistance.

Below are some pics of the front of our trailer. There is a credenza (removed) that extends across the trailer below the upper cabinet; follow the dirt line! A folding, expandable table is hinged to the credenza in the middle and flips out.

Behind the table pocket is a shelf that pulls up and out over the front edge of the credenza. It is suitable for supporting a TV with a center perch. We would stow the TV somewhere else when traveling.

You can see the upper cabinet cut-outs at each end for the OEM speakers. The radio cassette deck was located in the narrow opening in the middle. The wiring projecting through the wall (behind the cabinet) is a combination of 12v power, speaker wires (front and rear), radio antenna, lighting under the cabinet, and CB radio. 3 cabinet doors hide any crap-ola inside.

Not shown is the new Ethernet cable. It runs behind the bed/kitchen cabinets/sofa on the left side of the trailer. There is extra length to poke through the top of the credenza (or maybe the upper cabinet) to a modem and router.

There is space in the upper cabinet, as well as behind the credenza, for an inverter. If you look closely, you can see the outline of some wiring embedded in the foam. It protrudes out of the floor at the center of the wall. Directly below is an accessible junction pocket where connections from the tow vehicle and trailer batteries merge into the trailer.

I like KY's idea of having an inverter suitable for plugging in the fridge while traveling. But I'm only working with two series 24 batteries.

All this being said, This is what we have to work with. We don't need the current 12v aux speakers in the sleeping area; up-front speakers only are just fine. There is some room behind the speaker cut-outs to install speakers into the bottom of the cabinet if appropriate.

BTW - We love music and movies. My grandfather was a church organist!

[KYAvion]

I never thought of running Ethernet in my Avion. In what way do you all plan on using it?


Silverloaf- in case it helps, I only had two batteries in my trailer with the compressor fridge and inverter.

[silverloaf]

Thanks, KY.

You mentioned about using a 1000 watt inveter. Is that sufficient for a fridge and maybe a small A/V system? I should probably do the math. The fridge use is for travel only..

Regarding DC input cables, would a 4awg or 6awg wires be sufficient size?

I would like to do the rough-in wiring while I have the credenza out.

Thanks!

[KYAvion]

A 1,000 watt inverter was more than enough for the fridge I was using. With the fridge I used drawing 1.45 amps, that'd be 174 watts (volts x amps = watts). Say it draws three times that at startup, so now we're looking at roughly 500 watts being pulled from the inverter.

I don't know much about audio stuff, so I'm not sure what you'd be pulling with your system. I wouldn't think it'd be that much though.

As far as wire size, recommended is that the inverter be placed really close to the batteries. I think most recommend it being no more than 4 or 6 feet away, so if going further you'd want to increase the wire size to 2 AWG copper or even 4/0.

I am by no means an expert with this stuff. I'd probably start with the inverter, which involves deciding whether to go with a modified or pure sine. With sensitive electrical stuff, I imagine you'd want to go with a pure sine inverter. From there, see what the inverter manual specifies.

[silverloaf]

Thanks. If I mount the inverter in the credenza, I'll be less than 3-4 ft. away from the batteries.